Thursday, February 9, 2012

Zoo Photography: Some Basics

You've finally saved enough money to get yourself a nice camera and maybe a telephoto lens and now you're ready to delve into the world of nature photography. It has taken you months, years if you're one of those hardest hit by harsh economic conditions, and you are ready to show the world what you are capable of now that you have the right tools. Alas, however, a ticket anywhere outside your city's limits is, well, out of limits. Even if you sacrifice two meals a day for the next six months you still won't be able to get a ticket to Yellowstone let alone Serengeti. Oh, but you've seen those images of stampeding wildebeest, giraffes's heads towering over trees, lions stalking their next meal, cheetahs speeding through the veld. You've seen them all and you know you're as capable as the next photographer to capture the next National Geographic Image of the Year.

That's when you realize your city has its own zoo. You get your equipment, get some coins from the change jar, and hitchhike your way to the zoo. You smile, grasp your equipment- we're talking camera and lens here, folks- and head for the nearest exhibit. You snap away, but something is missing. It just doesn't feel like you were on Safari. The animals are there, but even you know your images won't fool any of your friends, let alone win you a prestigious award.

You know what's to blame. Those darned fences, glass barriers, and unnatural exhibit environments. Seriously, who has ever seen The Lion King's Timon sitting under a red light? Or a chimpanzee swinging on a tire swing in the wild?

You don't have to worry, though, there are others who've been through your shoes, yours truly being among them. I'll show you simple ways to shoot different exhibits.

1. Through Wire Fences

The trick here is two-fold: Use a long focal length lens and get as close to the fence as possible. Some zoos don't allow you to go right next to fence, so make sure you don't jump over whatever barrier they erect. Those barriers are there for your safety and that of the animals, so obey the rules.

You also have to watch where the sun is as it will reflect off the fence and will be noticeable in the image.

Leopards mating.
See the milky areas around and on the leopards? That's the reflection of the fence. The opportunity was a godsend...how often do you see mating leopards? It was the perfect situation at the wrong time. The sun was setting behind me, so the fence threw the reflection at the camera. Another factor, which I would have been able to overcome if it wasn't sunny, was there was about 3 or 4 yards between the fence and where I could stand. So, if I was closer, or the sun wasn't too bright, it would have been a much better shot.

In the image below, the arctic fox was shot through the wire and the sun was not behind me throwing a ghosting effect in the images. However, the animal was close to the back fence and it still showed in the image.

Arctic Fox
2. Through the Glass

Some people say you have to put the lens, preferably with the hood, at a slanting angle to the glass, but from my experience it's best to put the lens at a 90-degree angle perpendicular to the glass. This works to minimize reflections. Look at the glass and pick an area without reflection. 

Lion through the glass. Outdoor exhibit.

Blue Iguana through the glass. Indoor exhibit. 
3. Environment

The hardest thing to accomplish is to make the animal look as if it's in its natural state. The key is positioning and isolation. Position yourself in the best place to isolate the animal. Obviously, this eliminates wide angle lenses, I have yet to shoot any zoo animal using anything less than a 100mm lens, which I use primarily for indoor exhibits. 300mm is ideal for the zoo and there are a lot of good inexpensive lenses at that length. 

Another trick is to use a large aperture. I normally shoot at F/5.6 to isolate the animals. Indoors, I increase it to F/2.8 and would go higher if my lens allowed.

Elephants with fence in the background
You can see the fence in the background and there was just no way I could get it out with the longest lens I had. The elephants exhibit at my local zoo is really not set up to allow good shots, so I only go by there to look at the elephants and not to shoot. 

Here's one of a bird with the background blurred. You can't tell there's a net above the bird. You can see two large wires that help hold up the net, but they're blurred enough not to cause a distraction. 

Abdim's Stork
Sometimes you just have to walk away from exhibits without shots, or you need a few visits before you can identify the best way to shoot that particular animal- I imagine it's that way even in the wild-so don't feel bad about not getting a great shot of every animal in the zoo. 

4. Be Alert

You never know when a great photo opportunity will throw itself in your proverbial lap. Visiting the National Zoo one day, I exited the Invertebrates house and found myself in the pollinarium.  I didn't plan to shoot butterflies and I'm a lousy macro photographer but I managed to get off a few good shots of the only model who stayed put for me.

Zebra Longwing butterfly
So, keep your eye out, shoot more than the animals most people associate with the zoo. Find animals hiding in interesting places. Shoot flowers and other plants. make it seem like you were there in the wild. 

Roseate Spoonbill
Also watch out for shadows as they will mess up your image. Cloudy days are good to avoid shadows, but the diminished light can affect how some animals look in photographs. Experiment and see which weather is best for the animals you like to shoot. For me, prairie dogs are reserved for sunny weather, while others such as the white stork are good in cloudy weather. If the dark, you want sunny...if it's white, you want cloudy. 

Go, Go, Go

Well, now you have a few basics down. The rest is up to you. Some photographers haunt the same exhibit day in and day out hoping to get the money shot...you might want to try their tactic. Study the animals, their environment, and keep practicing. Never fear being wrong or missing a shot, even the best photographers miss good shots from time to time. All you need is enough great shots to increase your confidence. Even though it won't take you to exotic wild places, it will get you on the way to being a good wildlife photographer. 

Tuesday, February 7, 2012

Public Events Photography Etiquette

The Motorettes perform at a New Year's Eve function at the Baltimore Inner Harbor, Dec. 31, 2010

I've covered many festivals, parades, and other public events to have seen my fair share of selfish, inconsiderate, rude, and unfriendly photographers. As a photographer, you might have seen these jerks, too, or you might be one yourself. At these type of events, it's important to observe a few rules of etiquette to make sure all photographers at the event get a chance to get some images from good angles. Here are a few that I follow myself to make sure other photographers and revelers enjoy the event, too.
1. Be aware of your surroundings

As a photographer, it would be a sin to stand, crouch, or kneel in
front of the kids watching the puppet show here. So find other ways to get your shot.
Sounds simple enough by itself but I've seen many photographers guilty of this. At many events, paid or unpaid, I shoot primarily with the Canon 24-70 F/2.8L so I have to be close to my subject to eliminate unwanted objects or people in my shots. Besides, in photography the rule is to get as close as possible to your subject. Being close means being at the front near the stage or wherever the action is taking place. Being a big 6'4" 240lbs fella, it's easy for me to block the view of several people, half a dozen kids, and a few unhappy photographers. While shooting a Christmas boat parade, I was at the front of the crowd when I realized there were a few older women who were struggling to see the boats. Since they were shorter than I was, I let them get in front of me and I shot over their heads. I still got my shots and the lovely ladies got to enjoy the show. At other times, I will stand to the side and dart to the front to take images then move back out of the way. If you want to stay at the front of the action, either remain crouched, seated, or lying down. These type of events are organized for the people to enjoy, not the photographer to shoot.

Being this big, I sometimes fail to see shorter people around me so I tend to step on some toes or bump into people. Be ready to apologize and ask if they're fine. They'll sense whether you're genuine, so make sure you are.

2. Other photographers need to shoot too

I've met some pretty great photographers at public events and the one thing I've observed most about them is that they are considerate of other photographers' needs. At one neighborhood event the best spot to shoot from was at the right of the stage, so the photographer and I took turns shooting from there and never staying there more than enough time to get snap off a few frames at a time. Another photographer came and stood on the spot for a long time even when he wasn't taking pictures. Normally, I would just move to find another place to shoot but because of the way the stage was set up, that spot really minimized the amount of background clutter and the angle was just perfect so I asked the new photographer if he could move aside for a second while I took some shots from there. Because I'm nice and a big guy, the fellow complied. I've also seen some photographer post himself in front of a group of photographers blocking their view. Be good to other photographers

3. If possible, ask permission and say 'thank you.'
With a beautiful smile such as this, you can be sure that I asked for her
permission before the shot and said a healthy 'thank you!' after. 
Though I mainly work as an events photographer (conferences, meetings, parties, etc.) with businesses and other organizations, my joy is shooting events showcasing culture and heritage. I believe such events highlight the positives of humanity, that by observing them we get to witness what all humanity shares in common. Nothing says "I acknowledge the human in you" than asking permission to photography someone and saying 'thank you' afterwards. I know for sure they don't agree just because of my pretty face because I've seen them pose for other photographers with less than stellar looks. Also, some people have refused before. If this happens, just thank them and move on. This is not a requirement by any means, it just helps you accomplish rapport with folks and put them at ease, which will show in your images.

4. Obey event laws
Start of the Shamrock 5K.
Near the middle of the road shooting with a 24-70mm lens I had to be sure
beforehand that I could be here and know where I would  go to get out of the
runners' way as they got closer. 
There are places you can't go and things you can't do as a photographer at public events. Normally, such areas are cordoned off with barriers, but you will run into some events that don't bother to post signs or erect deterrents to keep people away. Knowing what you can do or can't do will keep you from running afoul of the event's staff and this is a very good thing for you as a photographer. Besides being thrown out or arrested, it can create a scene which will make event-goers uneasy around you. Remember that sometimes events will have an official photographer who probably worked hard to negotiate the deal and has a lot invested in covering the event, so do your best to keep out of his way. 

I feel obligated to repeat that public events are meant for the people to enjoy, and not for the photographers to shoot. But that doesn't mean you can't enjoy them, too.

These folks stopped me and asked if I could take their picture...I smilingly obliged.

Monday, February 6, 2012

Zoo Photography: Prairie Dogs

Black-Tailed Prairie Dog
Canon 1D Mark II with EF 300mm f4L @ 1/3200s F/5.6 ISO 400.

I love these black-tailed prairie dogs at the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore. Their exhibit near the front entrance is normally my first and last stops whenever I visit the zoo. Whenever I first approach them, they become alert and some even rush to their burrows. The key to shooting them is using a long focal length lens, getting as low as you can to shoot them at their eye level, and waiting until they get acclimated to your presence. I've also found that sunny days are best to show the shine in their fur as cloudy days bring out more of the dark areas of their fur.

I like the closed eyes on the first fellow as it seems like he/she was trying to look cute for the picture. The second one takes a break from munching on his carrot to observe me and my intentions. After a few seconds, he happily resumed his snack.

I didn't do much editing on these images. I shot in RAW (as I always do) and edited in Lightroom 3. I use a preset I call 'QuickEazy' that I use on the vast majority of my images. Individual settings in LR3 will depend on your camera and the image out of the camera. Adjust and see what comes out to your liking. With the Canon 300mm F/4L lens, an excellent zoo photography lens, I almost always shoot at f/5.6 to give me some speed and a good bokeh. ISO 400 helps with keeping the shutter speed up, too. In shaded areas I'll pump it up to ISO 800. I have found myself using up to ISO 3200 but that was on indoor exhibits such as snakes and frogs. To help with the speed and because the animals are usually closer, I use the 100mm F/2.8L Macro lens instead. I'll talk more about low-light zoo photography in a future post.

Black-Tailed Prairie Dog
Canon 1D Mark II with EF 300mm f4L @ 1/3200s F/5.6 ISO 400.

Blog Now Linked to Website

After much work, sweat, hair-pulling, pg-rated cursing, and hissing, I've managed to link the photocroaker blog to the photocroaker website. This has been in the works for a while but I had been pushing it back because of the sheer amount of code sweet-talking and/or arm-twisting involved. After 16 hours, I'd say this baby is ready to be taken for a ride. Will post the first post with images after I've had the customary five hours of sleep and a bowl of cereal. For now, I have to jump in the saddle and sail into that proverbial land where elves and eskimos reside. Sweet ridings!!!
p.s. click on this fellow to see my happy dance...p.s. p.s. don't say I didn't warn you!!!

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

photocroaker.com

I have a website with the address photocroaker.com where I will be showcasing my work and selling it.
I haven't been able to post much on here, but I have learned a lot in the past few months of working professionally that I'm willing to share.
If you have a question, please shoot me an email and I will respond asap.