Zoo Photography: Flamingos

Few birds are as attractive to zoo-goers as flamingos. They're large, pretty, weird, and just so alluring. They're also fun to photograph.
While the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore, my local zoo, has them, they're not available for visitor viewing. To see them I have to drive to the National Zoo in Washington, DC, which is about an hour's drive from where I live. Due to this, I haven't been able to go as many times as I would like to try different shooting techniques on them.

There are several problems that I ran into while shooting the National Zoo's flamingos. The first was that the bright, undiffused sunlight reflects harshly off the bird's feathers. It's like shooting a bright flower in bright sunlight, you lose detail in the subject.

The second issue was the dark shadow background in the flamingos' exhibit. This might actually have helped mask the unnatural environment, but it created a very contrasting image, not to mention playing tricks on the camera's sensor.

I will have to go photography them on a cloudy day to see if it makes any difference. Normally, I prefer to shoot bright animals, especially birds, on cloudy days because you are able to get details in the feathers. I would also like to see if shooting at f/8 instead of f/5.6 would make a difference in the final images.

It will take some time to figure all this out for myself as I only go to the National Zoo about once a month, compared to 3-4 trips a month I make to the Maryland Zoo, so I would love to hear from those who have mastered photographing these beautiful birds, and those who have run into other issues photographing them.

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Shots From Today's Zoo Visit

Having been unable to visit the zoo over the weekend, a sunny Monday was all the motivation I needed to head over there and see the animals. I have always had a love for animals since my young days, and visiting them at the zoo is an opportunity to increase my knowledge about them and meditate a little. 

Since it was Presidents Day and many people were off, the place was teeming with families, which meant having to steer clear of strollers and little running forms more suited for the demolition derby than the zoo's pathways. I still managed to see most of the animals, including some of my favorite ones. Here are the pics below. 

This time I photographed giraffe-feeding from downhill, having a different aspect from before.

To me, the sitatunga is a fascinating animal. I was completely unaware of them until recently even though I was a wildlife buff and lived in many countries where they're found as a kid. For some reason, only the females venture close to the pathway while the male remains near a chain-link fence that doesn't allow for a good photo.
When chased by predators, these swamp antelopes can hide submerged with only their noses showing.

This is Cactus, a Harris Hawk, one of the zoo's animal ambassadors. First time encountering him. Every time I go to the zoo on a nice day I meet at least one. They're easy to photography because they are not in enclosures and are used to being close to people.

The polar bear was out today but he was foaming at the mouth. Don't know if it's because he was angry at the crowds, because of his dental problems, or for another reason. Either way, I'm sure he's not too happy about missing snow this winter.

There are three arctic foxes at the zoo and she is by far my favorite one. She's little and is bullied by the male in the same enclosure, but she's just a snuggie furry ball. When I got there she moved from a log where she was sleeping and went in an open space that was much better to photography. Though I've been to the zoo multiple times before and always pass by this exhibit, this is the first time I've shot her without obstructions.

This is the friendliest animal- to me- at the zoo. A cotswold sheep, it will come to be petted soon as you approach the sheep pen in the Farmyard area. I have had all three take turns at being petted and push each other out of the way every few seconds or so. With farmyard animals, you don't have to isolate them because no one will really believe they're wild. You can show fences and barns to put them in a familiar environment.
You have to be careful petting animals as they can bite or hurt you. And just because they're farm animals doesn't mean you can feed them. The zoo has strict, measured diets for them.

One of the two Miniature Mediterranean Donkeys at the zoo. These guys are also a lot of fun to observe and shoot. They'll play with each other and appreciate a rub as much as the sheep. Always remember to wash your hands with soap after petting animals. 

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Zoo Photography: Animal-Human Interactions

Most, if not all, zoos have some type of human-animal interactions that are good photo opportunities. These include animal rides, petting, feeding, and others. The Maryland Zoo in Baltimore has a giraffe-feeding station that presents great shots if timed right.

On one of my recent visits to the zoo, I reached the feeding station just as a young child was asking her parents if she could feed the giraffe. Being that I had a 300mm lens on the camera, I was still trying to position myself right when she fed the giraffe. The images I got either showed hers or the giraffe's face, but not both. I wanted to show the relationship between the two and I felt I didn't really show it with any of the pics. 

Luckily, she asked if she could do it again, and this allowed me to capture the image I wanted. 

While this showed both the giraffe and the child, an image from her first feeding attempt is actually my favorite. 

Humans shouldn't always be excluded from your zoo photographs. They can add a little flavor to your shots. Kids are great because their faces really show genuine wonder and bliss at witnessing and/or interacting with animals. Shoot kids petting sheep, riding ponies or camels, or just watching animals. 

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Zoo Photography: Lions

Photographing lions, as with any other animal, will depend on what kind of exhibit the zoo has them in. At the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore, they're outside but you can see them through glass. There are no fences, just a solid wall with three large glass openings for viewing. In Syracuse, the exhibit was actually indoors while the lions playing area is outside. This required different settings and lenses as the lions were somewhat closer.

In Washington, DC, at the National Zoo, the lions are fully outside but you are a lot further from them so you will need a 300mm with a teleconverter or a 400mm. When I say far away I mean FAR AWAY...my 300mm couldn't fill up the frame without showing a lot of the background, which I avoid doing so as to project them in the wild.

The shots I will show here were all taken at the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore which has a couple of lions, a male and a female. The lions are not particularly active at any specific time that I know of, so you will more than likely find them lying down or in one spot they seem to like. The good thing is the spot is great for shooting their portrait.

As usual for outdoor exhibits, I used a Canon 300mm F4L IS on a Canon 1D Mark II and edited in Lightroom 3. For some of the shots, I had to remove a blue tint because of the glass reflecting the sky. Took all precautions I take while shooting through glass, but sometimes things just happen how they want, which is why we have computers and software to fix that.

Shot of lion and lioness resting while looking in opposite directions.

The lion posing for me. His intense gaze every time I go by his exhibit makes me wonder whether he has never seen a handsome fellow before, or whether I'm the biggest antelope he's ever seen. Hope it's the first.

Here he looks like he's about to attack but he's really just getting ready to lay down.  The intensity of his gaze is scary, though...I'm very glad for the invention of glass.

Lying down with paws crossed.

He's a good model whenever I pass by his exhibit. The lioness is normally in a spot with a fence showing prominently in the background, so her pictures will definitely come out as having been taken in a zoo.

If your zoo has a way to project these majestic kings of the veld as being in their natural environment, try to bring that in the images. If not, try to take portraits seemingly depicting them in the wild.

Good luck and happy shooting!!!

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Zoo Photography: Getting Animals' Attention

Shooting at the zoo should be safe both for you and the animals, so there are a few things we all know we shouldn't do at the zoo. While the animals can growl at you, you are not allowed to grow, yell, or shout back. You shouldn't heckle them, throw anything at them to get their attention, or jump into the enclosures to get a closer shot. All of us know this, I hope, so what can we do to get attention of animals' attention?

 

The best thing to do is to go off and come another time, however, this might not be possible for many people. What you can do depends on what kind of animal it is, its exhibit, and how far it is from you.

Some animals don't need much to be attentive to your presence. Prairie dogs, one of my favorite to shoot, are already attuned to detecting predators. You don't have to do anything to attract their attention. Soon as you arrive, they'll be scrutinizing you. If they get ignore you, a slight cough will get their attention. Please don't yell at them. Sometimes, however, a slight noise after they've become acclimated to your presence will get them scampering. You don't want to do this, so the best is to let them get used to you then just get the shot they present you.

An unexaggerated cough is all you need for most animals. You might not want to do it for some of them, however. Some birds, such as ducks and geese, will be scared off. If they're not looking at you, be patient and wait for them or just move on to other animals.

The most you can accomplish with this is just to get them to look in your direction. If you notice the animals getting jittery, you need to stop and possibly even move away and let it calm down. I tried the cough/clearing throat move on the warthog at the local zoo and it stopped to look squarely at me, but then started dashing back and forth, clearly unnerved. I moved away and haven't done the same at his exhibit.

If the animal is a fish, you need more than luck for the fish to notice you. You just have to study their behavior and movements to position yourself to get the shot you need.

When you go shooting at the zoo, seek to understand the animal first. Even when the animal seems like it's doing nothing, snap a few shots to study later on. Zoom in to observe its facial expressions. What are its eyes indicating? What does its body language say about your or other zoogoers' presence?

 

If the exhibit is indoors and animals are protected by glass, coughing won't get the animals attention. In this case I'll stand in front of the exhibit until the animal notices me then I'll begin to shoot. Take note of the animal's behavior, though. Once shooting a blue iguana its head began bobbing up and down in a threatening manner as soon as I arrived. I quickly took a shot or two then stepped away. A few minute later I came back and it wasn't doing it, so I stayed longer and took more pics.

If taunted and feeling threatened, animals won't hesitate to strike at you. The bad thing here is that there's glass between them and you, and this might seriously hurt them. So, if you see an animal getting irritated, please move on...you have too much of its attention.

Also, some animals are attracted to certain colors, so you can choose your clothes depending on which color the animal likes. I won't tell you which, so you need to do your research and experiment with the animals you like to shoot at your zoo. One large cat at our local zoo is attracted by red, maybe because its the color of lunch. Every time you wear red and near his exhibit he moves towards you. I found this out by accident as a friend I was with was wearing red.

Please remember, these animals don't need to be heckled to attract their attention. Treat them respectfully and they will give you good shots. Remember they're intelligent beings who are capable of recognizing you, so work on being on their good side.

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Zoo Photography: The Little Addra Gazelle That Thought It Could

There are several animals that seem to recognize me every time I come to the local zoo, which I do often, and either walk towards me or put on a show for me. Of course all of these could just be in my head, but seems like that's the way it happens. One of these animals is a little addra gazelle.

For those who frequent the winter in the zoo, you know this is the time animals get frisky...frisky as in "get it on." This little gazelle, however seems to be a little confused.

That's him trying to get frisky with a lesser kudu in the same exhibit. These gazelles are the largest gazelles in the world, but still don't measure up to the kudus. 

That's him following the kudu around. 

This is him trying to do the unthinkable...at least to me it's 'unthinkable'. The lesser kudu chased him off and he went to look at a female gazelle, where he was chased off by the dominant addra gazelle in the exhibit. 

The next time I went to the zoo, he stopped grazing when I came near the exhibit and moved towards the poor lesser kudu. This time she wasn't going to take it, though, so she engaged him in a fierce head-banging battle. 

The little gazelle stood his ground and actually forced the kudu to disengage and saunter away. A couple of times I felt bad for the little fellow, though, as I thought his neck would be snapped in two or more pieces.

Good news is nothing bad happened and after a while they went back to just grazing. I'm thinking the dominant addra gazelle should just let this poor fellow get a little pleasing from the females rather than him going out and risking breaking his neck.

Maybe he can pull it off, maybe he can't, but he clearly thinks he can. 

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Baltimore Police's Lack of Respect for Photographers Deserves Action

Recently, Baltimore City Police Department has released a memo to its officers to stop harassing photographers as a result of action from the ACLU and previously harassed photographers threatening to sue the city because of officers' behavior. To me, however, it comes off as a PR stunt and half-assed attempt to stave off a lawsuit.

Baltimore City Police Commissioner Bealefield hugs member  of the city's police force.
Recent actions by his officers raise doubts as to whether he can keep them in line. 

I have been approached by the police several times while shooting in places around Baltimore City, but, luckily, the encounters weren't with those officers who consider themselves "top-flight security of the world." According to the Law of Probability, however, it doesn't mean I won't run into some sooner or later. 

There is absolutely no excuse for the officers to behave in the manner they did. I'm going on a limb and say the officers in the video below are rejects who couldn't hold a night gig as clerks at a Kwik-E-Mart, let alone warm the seats at NASA or Morgan Stanley. I could be wrong, of course, and they're just acting on a well-held and enforced belief that they're above the constitution when it comes to carrying out their duties. 

If this is the first time it had happened I would just overlook it. But Baltimore PD...actually police in Maryland in general...is notorious for stamping on people's rights. You folks might remember the cowboy who sprung out of his unmarked car with his pistol drawn to arrest a speeding motorcyclist. Or the photographer who was harassed by transit police while taking pictures at a light rail stop. Or the photographer who was arrested, camera confiscated, and all the pictures erased during the Preakness race. 

There are many more instances which are not publicized. Last year as a group of us waited for the potential appearance of the Poe Toaster on the campus of the University of Maryland in Baltimore, a female university police officer approached talking on her cell phone, passed us without asking what we were doing, and proceeded to lock the gate that the curator of the Poe House and Museum had left open for the legendary gentleman who leaves a bottle of cognac and roses at Edgar Alan Poe's grave every January. When I took a picture, she threateningly retorted that I couldn't take her picture. Being one who never backs down when I know I'm right, I took her picture anyways, but we were baffled as to how someone affiliated with the university didn't know about the tradition. She could have at least asked us or called it in to see what the gathering was about. 

Ignorant University of Maryland police officer

When I was stopped another time while shooting with friends at the inner harbor, I took the opportunity to inform the Baltimore PD officer that a terrorist is less likely to carry a large camera and lenses to scout out the location. It's just not conspicuous enough. The attention I attract with my gear would be too discomforting to a terrorist scout. By the end, the officer was joking with us. I have to give credit to this officer, he wasn't threatening, barking out questions, or intimidating in any way...he was simply inquiring. This made us give him replies we wouldn't even have considered had he not shown us respect. In the end, both sides didn't have any wasted time and avoided creating a mess. 

Anyways, here's the video: 

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Zoo Photography: Some Basics

You've finally saved enough money to get yourself a nice camera and maybe a telephoto lens and now you're ready to delve into the world of nature photography. It has taken you months, years if you're one of those hardest hit by harsh economic conditions, and you are ready to show the world what you are capable of now that you have the right tools. Alas, however, a ticket anywhere outside your city's limits is, well, out of limits. Even if you sacrifice two meals a day for the next six months you still won't be able to get a ticket to Yellowstone let alone Serengeti. Oh, but you've seen those images of stampeding wildebeest, giraffes's heads towering over trees, lions stalking their next meal, cheetahs speeding through the veld. You've seen them all and you know you're as capable as the next photographer to capture the next National Geographic Image of the Year.

That's when you realize your city has its own zoo. You get your equipment, get some coins from the change jar, and hitchhike your way to the zoo. You smile, grasp your equipment- we're talking camera and lens here, folks- and head for the nearest exhibit. You snap away, but something is missing. It just doesn't feel like you were on Safari. The animals are there, but even you know your images won't fool any of your friends, let alone win you a prestigious award.

You know what's to blame. Those darned fences, glass barriers, and unnatural exhibit environments. Seriously, who has ever seen The Lion King's Timon sitting under a red light? Or a chimpanzee swinging on a tire swing in the wild?

You don't have to worry, though, there are others who've been through your shoes, yours truly being among them. I'll show you simple ways to shoot different exhibits.

1. Through Wire Fences

The trick here is two-fold: Use a long focal length lens and get as close to the fence as possible. Some zoos don't allow you to go right next to fence, so make sure you don't jump over whatever barrier they erect. Those barriers are there for your safety and that of the animals, so obey the rules.

You also have to watch where the sun is as it will reflect off the fence and will be noticeable in the image.

Leopards mating.

See the milky areas around and on the leopards? That's the reflection of the fence. The opportunity was a godsend...how often do you see mating leopards? It was the perfect situation at the wrong time. The sun was setting behind me, so the fence threw the reflection at the camera. Another factor, which I would have been able to overcome if it wasn't sunny, was there was about 3 or 4 yards between the fence and where I could stand. So, if I was closer, or the sun wasn't too bright, it would have been a much better shot.

In the image below, the arctic fox was shot through the wire and the sun was not behind me throwing a ghosting effect in the images. However, the animal was close to the back fence and it still showed in the image.

Arctic Fox

2. Through the Glass

Some people say you have to put the lens, preferably with the hood, at a slanting angle to the glass, but from my experience it's best to put the lens at a 90-degree angle perpendicular to the glass. This works to minimize reflections. Look at the glass and pick an area without reflection. 

Lion through the glass. Outdoor exhibit.

Blue Iguana through the glass. Indoor exhibit. 

3. Environment

The hardest thing to accomplish is to make the animal look as if it's in its natural state. The key is positioning and isolation. Position yourself in the best place to isolate the animal. Obviously, this eliminates wide angle lenses, I have yet to shoot any zoo animal using anything less than a 100mm lens, which I use primarily for indoor exhibits. 300mm is ideal for the zoo and there are a lot of good inexpensive lenses at that length. 

Another trick is to use a large aperture. I normally shoot at F/5.6 to isolate the animals. Indoors, I increase it to F/2.8 and would go higher if my lens allowed.

Elephants with fence in the background

You can see the fence in the background and there was just no way I could get it out with the longest lens I had. The elephants exhibit at my local zoo is really not set up to allow good shots, so I only go by there to look at the elephants and not to shoot. 

Here's one of a bird with the background blurred. You can't tell there's a net above the bird. You can see two large wires that help hold up the net, but they're blurred enough not to cause a distraction. 

Abdim's Stork

Sometimes you just have to walk away from exhibits without shots, or you need a few visits before you can identify the best way to shoot that particular animal- I imagine it's that way even in the wild-so don't feel bad about not getting a great shot of every animal in the zoo. 

4. Be Alert

You never know when a great photo opportunity will throw itself in your proverbial lap. Visiting the National Zoo one day, I exited the Invertebrates house and found myself in the pollinarium.  I didn't plan to shoot butterflies and I'm a lousy macro photographer but I managed to get off a few good shots of the only model who stayed put for me.

Zebra Longwing butterfly

So, keep your eye out, shoot more than the animals most people associate with the zoo. Find animals hiding in interesting places. Shoot flowers and other plants. make it seem like you were there in the wild. 

Roseate Spoonbill

Also watch out for shadows as they will mess up your image. Cloudy days are good to avoid shadows, but the diminished light can affect how some animals look in photographs. Experiment and see which weather is best for the animals you like to shoot. For me, prairie dogs are reserved for sunny weather, while others such as the white stork are good in cloudy weather. If the dark, you want sunny...if it's white, you want cloudy. 

Go, Go, Go

Well, now you have a few basics down. The rest is up to you. Some photographers haunt the same exhibit day in and day out hoping to get the money shot...you might want to try their tactic. Study the animals, their environment, and keep practicing. Never fear being wrong or missing a shot, even the best photographers miss good shots from time to time. All you need is enough great shots to increase your confidence. Even though it won't take you to exotic wild places, it will get you on the way to being a good wildlife photographer. 

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Public Events Photography Etiquette

The Motorettes perform at a New Year's Eve function at the Baltimore Inner Harbor, Dec. 31, 2010

I've covered many festivals, parades, and other public events to have seen my fair share of selfish, inconsiderate, rude, and unfriendly photographers. As a photographer, you might have seen these jerks, too, or you might be one yourself. At these type of events, it's important to observe a few rules of etiquette to make sure all photographers at the event get a chance to get some images from good angles. Here are a few that I follow myself to make sure other photographers and revelers enjoy the event, too.

1. Be aware of your surroundings

As a photographer, it would be a sin to stand, crouch, or kneel in
front of the kids watching the puppet show here. So find other ways to get your shot.

Sounds simple enough by itself but I've seen many photographers guilty of this. At many events, paid or unpaid, I shoot primarily with the Canon 24-70 F/2.8L so I have to be close to my subject to eliminate unwanted objects or people in my shots. Besides, in photography the rule is to get as close as possible to your subject. Being close means being at the front near the stage or wherever the action is taking place. Being a big 6'4" 240lbs fella, it's easy for me to block the view of several people, half a dozen kids, and a few unhappy photographers. While shooting a Christmas boat parade, I was at the front of the crowd when I realized there were a few older women who were struggling to see the boats. Since they were shorter than I was, I let them get in front of me and I shot over their heads. I still got my shots and the lovely ladies got to enjoy the show. At other times, I will stand to the side and dart to the front to take images then move back out of the way. If you want to stay at the front of the action, either remain crouched, seated, or lying down. These type of events are organized for the people to enjoy, not the photographer to shoot.

Being this big, I sometimes fail to see shorter people around me so I tend to step on some toes or bump into people. Be ready to apologize and ask if they're fine. They'll sense whether you're genuine, so make sure you are.

2. Other photographers need to shoot too

I've met some pretty great photographers at public events and the one thing I've observed most about them is that they are considerate of other photographers' needs. At one neighborhood event the best spot to shoot from was at the right of the stage, so the photographer and I took turns shooting from there and never staying there more than enough time to get snap off a few frames at a time. Another photographer came and stood on the spot for a long time even when he wasn't taking pictures. Normally, I would just move to find another place to shoot but because of the way the stage was set up, that spot really minimized the amount of background clutter and the angle was just perfect so I asked the new photographer if he could move aside for a second while I took some shots from there. Because I'm nice and a big guy, the fellow complied. I've also seen some photographer post himself in front of a group of photographers blocking their view. Be good to other photographers

3. If possible, ask permission and say 'thank you.'

With a beautiful smile such as this, you can be sure that I asked for her
permission before the shot and said a healthy 'thank you!' after. 

Though I mainly work as an events photographer (conferences, meetings, parties, etc.) with businesses and other organizations, my joy is shooting events showcasing culture and heritage. I believe such events highlight the positives of humanity, that by observing them we get to witness what all humanity shares in common. Nothing says "I acknowledge the human in you" than asking permission to photography someone and saying 'thank you' afterwards. I know for sure they don't agree just because of my pretty face because I've seen them pose for other photographers with less than stellar looks. Also, some people have refused before. If this happens, just thank them and move on. This is not a requirement by any means, it just helps you accomplish rapport with folks and put them at ease, which will show in your images.

4. Obey event laws

Near the middle of the road shooting with a 24-70mm lens I had to be sure
beforehand that I could be here and know where I would  go to get out of the
runners' way as they got closer. 

There are places you can't go and things you can't do as a photographer at public events. Normally, such areas are cordoned off with barriers, but you will run into some events that don't bother to post signs or erect deterrents to keep people away. Knowing what you can do or can't do will keep you from running afoul of the event's staff and this is a very good thing for you as a photographer. Besides being thrown out or arrested, it can create a scene which will make event-goers uneasy around you. Remember that sometimes events will have an official photographer who probably worked hard to negotiate the deal and has a lot invested in covering the event, so do your best to keep out of his way. 

I feel obligated to repeat that public events are meant for the people to enjoy, and not for the photographers to shoot. But that doesn't mean you can't enjoy them, too.

These folks stopped me and asked if I could take their picture...I smilingly obliged.

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Zoo Photography: Prairie Dogs

Canon 1D Mark II with EF 300mm f4L @ 1/3200s F/5.6 ISO 400.

I love these black-tailed prairie dogs at the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore. Their exhibit near the front entrance is normally my first and last stops whenever I visit the zoo. Whenever I first approach them, they become alert and some even rush to their burrows. The key to shooting them is using a long focal length lens, getting as low as you can to shoot them at their eye level, and waiting until they get acclimated to your presence. I've also found that sunny days are best to show the shine in their fur as cloudy days bring out more of the dark areas of their fur.

I like the closed eyes on the first fellow as it seems like he/she was trying to look cute for the picture. The second one takes a break from munching on his carrot to observe me and my intentions. After a few seconds, he happily resumed his snack.

I didn't do much editing on these images. I shot in RAW (as I always do) and edited in Lightroom 3. I use a preset I call 'QuickEazy' that I use on the vast majority of my images. Individual settings in LR3 will depend on your camera and the image out of the camera. Adjust and see what comes out to your liking. With the Canon 300mm F/4L lens, an excellent zoo photography lens, I almost always shoot at f/5.6 to give me some speed and a good bokeh. ISO 400 helps with keeping the shutter speed up, too. In shaded areas I'll pump it up to ISO 800. I have found myself using up to ISO 3200 but that was on indoor exhibits such as snakes and frogs. To help with the speed and because the animals are usually closer, I use the 100mm F/2.8L Macro lens instead. I'll talk more about low-light zoo photography in a future post.

Canon 1D Mark II with EF 300mm f4L @ 1/3200s F/5.6 ISO 400.

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Blog Now Linked to Website

After much work, sweat, hair-pulling, pg-rated cursing, and hissing, I've managed to link the photocroaker blog to the photocroaker website. This has been in the works for a while but I had been pushing it back because of the sheer amount of code sweet-talking and/or arm-twisting involved. After 16 hours, I'd say this baby is ready to be taken for a ride. Will post the first post with images after I've had the customary five hours of sleep and a bowl of cereal. For now, I have to jump in the saddle and sail into that proverbial land where elves and eskimos reside. Sweet ridings!!!

p.s. click on this fellow to see my happy dance...p.s. p.s. don't say I didn't warn you!!!

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